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Buying A Bargain Electric Bike
I accept that for some people they are very useful and possibly the only way they can get about at an economic price and they can be a good form of transport for anyone that regularly travels up to 10 or 15 mile round trips. However it is the battery and it's short life that puts me off. I would not trust one to last more than 15 -20 miles even when new. Some electric bike manufacturers do quote longer ranges than this but once the battery is a little used or if there are any hills on your trip the likely distance you'll travel on battery power alone is greatly reduced. I am always cautious about secondhand "electrics" unless they've had a new battery as replacing it can cost more than the bike is worth. Generally the cycle is similar to an ordinary bike and so fairly easy and relatively cheap to repair but a battery is impossible to repair and it is difficult to know what the condition of a secondhand one is. A previous owner may have left it uncharged for a long time or it may have been overcharged by a faulty charger or it may lose it's charge after a short ride. You will have no way of telling. When I buy one in for my shop I always have a test ride, preferably up a hill as any weaknesses will show up there. As a rule I reckon on having to replace the battery and factor that into the price I offer unless the owner has proof of a replacement being fitted. It's a good idea to Google the make and model of the bike and check out the cost before viewing a potential purchase as the price and availability fluctuates wildly. There are many different makes of electric bike and it would be impossible for me to review them all in a short article but there are basic specifications you should look for to make sure you get the best for your money. * A maximum speed of not less than 15 mph. * A maximum quoted range of more than 20 miles. * A weight of less than 30kg. * Peak power of more than 300watts. * Ni-MH or Li-ion battery. * If you're riding in hilly areas a crank drive electric motor is best as it drives through the rear gears and can cope with steeper hills than a hub or friction drive which only have one gear. * Friction drives wear their rollers and rear tires out very quickly. I wouldn't buy one at all. OK, you've tried the bike out and are happy with it's specification, battery and general condition. Don't tell the seller that. Tell them you're not sure - haggle, haggle, haggle. Remember you may have to spend $150 plus on a new battery so don't blow your whole budget just because the bike is shiny and clean. Think battery, battery, battery. Good luck and happy cycling. Article Directory: http://www.articledashboard.com You can find more information on bikes at Mend My Bike |
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