True climbing roses, including the hybrid teas and climbing floribundas, have sturdier, more upright growth than the ramblers. They’re suitable for walls and fences whereas ramblers serve a better purpose when used for low fences, pillars or pergolas.
Ramblers have smaller flowers showing briefly in early summer and they’re pruned in September. Climbing roses have the larger blooms and are often repeat flowering. All through the growing season, you should be training in your climbers and ramblers as required. This will help to either form the framework if newly planted, or add to it when the plants are well-established.
• MARCH. As this is early in the growing year, any dead wood that has been damaged by disease or frost should be removed, but also look out for diseased middle sections of stems or canes and remove these too.
• APRIL. If your plants are established, all pruning should have been completed by the end of last month. Now though, feed your climbers and ramblers with a specialized fertilizer and hoe it into the surface soil. As all of your rose bushes should be starting to wake up and move into growth now, they will begin to take up the nutrition through their roots and a good feed will start working its way down through the soil towards their roots. You should also consider mulching around the bases of your roses using manure or garden compost or even a thin layer of grass clippings. Mulching will help to keep moisture in the earth around the roses as the temperatures start to rise. It will also help to keep the newly emerging weedlings down.
• MAY. If using chemical insecticides, you can protect against aphids by starting to spray with a systemic insecticide.
• JUNE. You should continue spraying against aphids if this appears to be a problem because they can soon place a large burden on the stamina of your climbing roses. If mildew, rust or black spot are likely to be a problem for your roses, now is the time to start spraying them with a proprietary mixture suitable for these diseases. Your local garden shop should be able to help you with your choice.
• JULY. To increase the number of blooms and to keep the rose happily flowering, it’s time to start removing any spent blooms as they go over (dead-heading). Your roses could probably do with a good feed now as they should be flowering their little hearts out for you. Also, continue to check for aphids, and spray at the recommended dosage if they appear to be getting a toe hold on the roses.
• AUGUST. This month you should continue removing any spent blooms as the fade, to help maintain the flowering rate. Now is also the time to stop feeding your roses. Any new growth promoted because of feeding now will probably be too soft to make it through the next winter, and as such it will be prone to frost damage and disease.
• SEPTEMBER. Now is the time to scatter a little wood-ash, if available, or sulphate of potash around your roses and hoe it in. You can also take cuttings from the mature side shoots of your climbers and ramblers. If you make your cuttings about 12 inches long they can then be planted into a sheltered part of your garden.
• OCTOBER. Even now it may be necessary to spray against aphids, but this month you should put an end to all spraying, whether for pests or diseases.
Note: All activity timings require that you inform yourself of your climate zone if living in the USA as these will obviously have to be taken into account. Your local garden center or shop should be able to give you more specific advice on this.
Keith Berwick is a rose growing enthusiast who has been growing roses both professionally and for pleasure for over 40 years and enjoys helping others to get started in this rewarding hobby. For more great information on growing climbing roses, visit www.rosecaretoptips.com
Click the XML Icon Above to Receive Gardening Articles Via RSS!
