Purely For Pleasure: The Myth And Reality Of St Tropez.
Even if you’ve never been to St. Tropez, you’ve probably already seen the famous clock tower and the multi-million dollar yachts berthed shoulder to shoulder at the quayside. You’ve probably also heard talk of the boutiques, luxury hotels, restaurants and bars bursting with celebrities; all glitz and high-living. Some people are put off, others are drawn by curiosity. Certainly everyone has formed an impression before they arrive.
It’s hard to imagine that just after the end of the Second World War when the owners of a local fishermen’s bar decided to open their cellar for dancing, everyone laughed because they couldn’t believe anyone from outside the village would ever come. In 1944 the quay Suffren, today lined with super yachts, was jagged with craters from the mines detonated by retreating German forces during the Allied landings. The nearby pastel houses, including the famous Bar Senequier, were tattered and pockmarked by shrapnel. However, earlier in the century, St. Tropez had been patronised by a number of artists and writers and already had a reputation as something of a creative melting pot. When the dust settled, the village soon began to attract musicians, film stars and other celebrities.
Brigitte Bardot arrives in town.
In the mid 1950s the fishermen’s bar expanded again to become the Hotel de la Ponche and Club 55 opened its doors on the Pampelonne beach. At the same time, Brigitte Bardot made her film debut in Roger Vadim’s “And God Created Woman” instantly immortalising the myth of ‘la vie Tropezienne’ to the outside world. The partygoers arrived in force as word spread and, before long, the jet-set could drop anchor safe in the knowledge that they would bump into their friends. Today, the same establishments that contributed to its initial success are still amongst the most popular. In a world where fame is often fleeting and based on large marketing budgets, St. Tropez is a rare phenomenon.
“It’s not what I expected at all” is the comment we frequently hear from the guests aboard our yachts. No-one’s particularly sure what they did expect but the pretty cobbled streets, stone archways and patchwork pastel houses always seem to come as a pleasant surprise. Whilst the wealthy look on, the less well-heeled gaze across from the other side of the passerelle and lick their ice creams. But beyond the clutter of postcards, t-shirts and the usual tourist paraphernalia, St Tropez has genuine charm and authenticity.
Immortalised on canvas.
Take a visit to the art gallery La Musée de l’Annonciade and admire the view through the eyes of the famous artists who gathered here in the early twentieth century. You’ll recognise the light and the colours: the purple hills, the sun-washed buildings and the blazing sunsets. The light and atmosphere that Matisse, Signac and Marquet captured on canvas hasn’t changed and you can still sit on the terrace of La Ponche in Picasso’s favourite corner to appreciate his panorama of the bay. Strolling around the rambling alleyways you’ll come across the numerous galleries and studios of today’s artists who continue to find their inspiration here.
On Saturday or Tuesday browse the market in the Place des Lices; locals and tourists alike bustle around the colourful stalls laden with fruit and vegetables, olives, flowers, herbs and spices, brightly patterned tablecloths and traditional straw shopping bags. In the evening it’s the preserve of the boules enthusiasts who wile away the hours under the plane trees, fortified by glasses of aniseed flavoured Pastis. But at the end of a hot afternoon the best place to take refuge is in the Bar Sube where you can sink into one of the deep, polished leather armchairs. Upstairs from the Quai Suffren, it has the feel of a colonial yacht club and is the ideal place to remain incognito. Last time I was there, Giorgio Armani was quietly enjoying a drink with friends, a comfortable distance from the crowds. It’s also the best vantage point to want to watch what’s going on outside - take your seat on the narrow terrace at about five thirty and be entertained by the ballet of superyachts arriving in the port.
A unique blend of luxury and bohemianism.
So where’s the glitz? Well, only the French could combine deluxe with pure bohemianism in such style. Here, designer labels mingle with market stall finds and straw hats, you might leave the Ferrari in the garage and take the Mini-Moke instead, but you can still pop into Dior and pick up some arm candy to show off when you dine at the Byblos (they’ll even bring a little stool for you to put your new handbag on). One thing is essential though – a yacht.
Originally cut off landside by the densely forested Maures hills, St. Tropez has always been visited by sea; the Greeks, Romans, Saracens and Catalans all left their mark here and in the fifteenth century the town needed its own militia to keep the pirates at bay! Today, access is hampered by the motor car – in mid-summer the road into town simply grinds to a halt! But nowadays, the seaborne invaders are more welcome and the comings and goings of everything from tenders to eighty metre yachts is orchestrated with amazing precision. The only drawback being that everyone’s anchors get tangled into an unholy mess every night and the port divers earn a very good living sorting out the spaghetti next morning!
A yacht is the ultimate accessory.
To visit St.Tropez without a means of getting afloat is like going to the races without your binoculars – you’ll miss most of the action and you’ll never understand what all the fuss is about. Going to the beach? You’ll need the yacht because it’s on the other side of the headland to the town! Every evening hundreds of yachts arrive, decanting their guests onto the quayside still salty and often still in their bikinis and beach wraps to enjoy an aperitif or browse around the chic boutiques. And for those who come to see and be seen the deck of a yacht makes a perfect stage!
But it’s the sailing yachts that are really in St. Tropez’s blood and the pressure rises every October during the “Voiles de St. Tropez”. For seven days the romance of sail reigns supreme with not a motor yacht in sight. From classic yachts to up-to-the-minute carbon fibre racing machines, the Old Port is lined with thoroughbreds of a wilder kind. The sea churns and sails crack as the world’s most powerful sailing yachts jostle for position in the bay. This is St. Tropez’s annual rendezvous with its roots. Many of the locals are seasoned sailors and even the graveyard has a prime sea view. Even so, you won’t find any celebrities buried here; it’s a very exclusive club – only third generation born and bred Tropeziennes are allowed underground!
Perhaps it’s this determination of the locals to keep some things for themselves that contributes to St. Tropez’s lasting appeal. A resistance to change and a healthy respect for tradition and continuity of ownership has kept many of its institutions in the hands of the same families from one generation to the next. Added to this are the people who have settled here attracted by the bohemian lifestyle who bring another dimension to what is a very multi-faceted community. Whatever the reason, there’s nowhere quite like it. St Tropez is purely for pleasure; a theme park for adults where you can rub your toes in the sand whilst still wearing your stilettos and someone will pass you a glass of chilled Champagne. One thing’s for sure, when God created Woman he also created St. Tropez.
Michelle Blore has visited most of the world's most glamorous locations by boat is the founder of Dream Sailing which specialises in luxury crewed sailing yacht charter. Visit www.dreamsailing.com and find out how to experience the world of luxury yachting for yourself.
Click the XML Icon Above to Receive Boating Articles Via RSS!
