Size, Shape And Where To Position Your Pond

Size of Your Pond:
Miniponds like half-barrels, deep sinks and small rigid liners should be considered to house aquatic plants and a few Glodfish, but for a proper pond which can be likely to remain clear you need to aim for the water surface of no less than 40 sq. ft. The minimum depth of water should be 18 inches at some point. If the surface area is 50 sq. ft or more and if you intend to have various types of fish, then a depth of 24 inches is better. For the bigger ponds of several hundred sq. ft a depth of 30 inches is required.

Don’t forget a shelf is necessary for housing the Marginal plants which require their crowns to become covered with the water - this shelf can run around part or the entire of a pond. It needs to be at least 10 inches wide and it must be 9 inches below the water surface.

Shape of The Pond:
Square and rectagle shapes are usually created using cocrete or building blocks, and are also obtainable as rigid liners. A large variety of other shapes may be purchased as rigid liners such as circles, ovals, oblongs and even triangles and irregular forms.
With a Flexible liner it is best to stick to a shape with gentle curves. At all costs avoid fussy shapes and sharp corners as they are usually not easy to produce with polythene, PVC or butyl sheeting. Both vertical and gentle slanting sides may also pose problems so the very best recommendation is aim to get a 20 degree slope.

The most effective position for the pond:
Where you choose to make your pond is extremely crucial. To get a worthwhile display form your Water Lillies and other aquatic plants the site ought to be shade free for at the very least 5 - 6 hours through the day. Having said that, the location of your pond should must be protected from the prevailing wind to avoid scorching of young foliage as well as the toppling of tall marginal plants. Hanging trees are also a serious problem. They cast shade obviously, however the hidden danger is that thier leaves fall into the pond and decompose which in turn produces salts and gases which can be damaging towards the fish as well as encouraging that appalling green algae to flourish.

Trees which are the most most dangerous to pond owners include Willow, Horse Chestnut, Poplar, Laburnum, Holly, Laurel and Rhododendron. As well as these there is the Cherry and Plum trees, these two trees are hosts for the Water Lily Aphid not to mention that the tree roots which themselves can damage some pond linings.
Now, besides avoiding danger spots there is also a requirement for convenience and eye-appeal. Ideally the pond sould be as close as posssible to a source of electricity and water and also close enough to your home for that fountain or waterfall being seen and heard. The refletion in the water ought to be attractive to the eye and where possible an informal pond should be sited at the lowest part of the garden.

By: Kevin Portman

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In my next article, which again will follow very soon, I will be writing about the different sorts of materials you can use to create your pond. I would also like to take this opportunity to thank the 'gardener london' company who have given me help and advise during the countless years that I’ve been gardening.