Skin Moisturizing

Hydrating the skin and/or protecting it from dehydration are actions that every good skin moisturizer must perform. That is, they are made to enhance water equilibrium in the epidermis, particularly in the stratum corneum. An equilibrated level of humidity in your skin shows an adequate hydration in your whole body; in the other hand, dry skin could be a sign of dehydration or water regulation problems.
The unique structure of the stratum corneum of the skin helps to its job as a barrier to water loss and the external harsh environment. The injury to this barrier by the environment and common irritants with the resulting loss of water from the skin is the main reason for the development of dry skin or irritant dermatitis.
A good skin moisturizing product can help to improve the hydration of the skin and maybe repair/restore the barrier through use of components that are similar to the skin's natural moisturizing factors or occlusion of the skin to prevent water loss and skin dryness.
Moisturizer Chemistry
Water: 65-85% (lotions and creams) - Dilutes and disperses components, evaporates from skin surface
Lipids: 5-35% (lotions and creams) Up to 100% (ointments) ( petrolatum, vegetable oils, mineral oil, lanolin, fatty acids, ceramides, cholesterol, fatty alcohols, beeswax) - Prevent water loss and dry skin, repair lipid layers, restore barrier thanks to an occlusive effect
Emulsifiers: 1-2% ( triethanolamine, quaternium 15, stearic acid, fatty alcohols) - Allow lipids and water to stay in suspension as a lotion form
Active Ingredients: 0.05-15% ( petrolatum 30-100%, allantoin, alpha hydroxy acids, dimethicone, urea, glycerine, lactic acid, sunscreens/sunblocks) - Moisturize the skin, skin protectants, block UVA/UVB, fill in spaces between cells, lubricate
Preservatives: 0.1 to 1% ( alcohols, parabens, methylisothiazoline, disodium EDTA, imidazolidyl urea, quaternium 15) - Prevent growth of microbes in the product
Fragrance: less than 0.25% - Give the product a fragrant scent or mask the odor of the lipids
Moisturizer Terminology
Anti-aging: Sunscreen/sunblock in the product.
Barrier Cream: Alter the penetration of substances such as water and chemicals into the skin by interaction of the cream ingredients with the stratum corneum. Evaporation of water can continue even when a protective water-repellent film may form on the skin.
Dermatologist Tested: Does not mean anything of importance. Even if only one dermatologist tested the product, the term can be used.
Hypoallergenic: Not a reliable term that may imply reduced amounts of chemicals that have an allergenic potential, like fragrance or preservatives.
Non-comedogenic: The components do not cause the pores on the face, chest or back to become blocked and develop comedones (blackheads). These products may have been tested on rabbit ears.
Oil in Water Emulsion: Water is used to dissolve oil. This is a water-based product. These products are usually lotions or light creams and dissolve readily into the skin without leaving a greasy film.
Sensitive Skin Formula: This is an undefined term. The product may have reduced fragrance or preservatives.
Therapeutic Effect: Help the skin heal by restoring the natural skin barrier, a helpful capability of efficient dry skin treatment products.
Unscented: The product uses no fragrances. The product may actually include a masking fragrance to reduce the odor of the oils in the products.
Water in Oil Emulsion: An oil-based product ( petrolatum, natural plant oils, mineral oil) that contains a small amount of water dissolved on it. These mixtures are commonly heavier creams or ointments and can form a film on the skin, acting as occlusive agents.

By: Nancy Hall

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