The History Of Surfing In Hawaii

All over the world there are surfing competitions that take place. By entering these contests you may have a chance to win a lot of money, trophies and a title. It's become a very popular sport enjoyed by many kinds of people.

The oceans of Hawaii were most likely the first to see people riding the surf. What a sight it must have been for the first foreigners seeing these surfers sliding along the top and down the sides of giant waves, perched upon their long boards.

For the ancient natives of Hawaii long ago, riding the waves was, and still remains, an art and the sport of kings. Because the vast oceans are considered sacred to many of these venerable folks, there were formal ceremonies regarding the making and using of the surfboard. The kings and their court were given the right to ride the large boards which weighed less than the smaller heavier boards that the lower caste was allowed to ride.

As various outside missions spread to the islands and the happy surfers were keenly observed, the missionaries branded this act as less than desirable. They tried to make riding of surfboards forbidden to the natives. Many strangers to the land also aided the missionaries in their quest to put a stop to this activity. Kept alive by certain kings, surfing continued to flourish, despite the opposition.

In the early 1900's, a swimmer and surfer named Duke Kahanamoku started travelling around the world giving swimming presentations. He also used this time to familiarize the rest of the world to the sport of surfing. There is a statue of this wave riding pioneer that still stands today on Waikiki Beach on the island of Oahu.

During the winter months on the island of Oahu, you will find numerous wave-riding competitions. From Waimea Bay, to Sunset Beach, during the colder months, not only does the rain increase, but so does the size of the waves. The waves at Pipeline Beach are some of the most famous in the world. A great number of people have died trying to surf the monstrous waves created there, but the Pipeline Master's Competition is still held there today despite the many risks.

Surfing is an exhilarating ride which requires a great amount skill and balance, not only to get up on the board, but also to stay on it. For beginners, learning how to get on the board can sometimes take all day, but once you're standing and you've managed to catch your first tiny swell, chances are the next time you're near the ocean, you'll find it difficult not to want to grab the nearest board and make your way out past the breakers.

By: Rebecca McKeich

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