Transplanting Roses Safely

In an ideal world you'd leave the transplanting of any plant until after its growing season has ended in the fall, and before the sap starts to rise the following spring. But, you never know, it may happen someday, that you have a rose that needs to be moved. Maybe it's because the site isn't getting as much light as you'd originally thought, or that particular rose doesn't fit in with the color scheme after all, or maybe you've finally managed to sell your house, you want to take this particular rose with you. It's the wrong time of year and you're afraid of the potential cost, the rose may die on you, but you felt you have no other option.

Here’s a method that's worth trying when you really must move a rose bush out of season. Rose bushes under about 5 years of age are usually pretty resilient and should handle the experience without too much fuss. Over five years of age and my experience tells me, they're pretty well entrenched in their current position and attempting to move them at this time of year, may cost you the rose.

Preparation and forethought is the key here! A cool evening would be helpful too! Having decided to take the risk, you need to make sure the rose that you'll be moving is good and wet. The evening before, place a bucket as close to the rose as possible and trail your hosepipe into it. Fill the bucket, and let it overflow for a couple of hours. This should ensure that the rose's roots are well soaked.

The next task is to prepare the new planting site. There really is no excuse for having the rose out of the ground any longer than is absolutely necessary.

I'm assuming that the new site is suitable:
• It gets, at the very least, 6 hours of sunlight a day.
• The pH has been tested and it's between 6.0 and 6.9.
• The site doesn't get waterlogged.

When digging the hole at the new planting site, make sure that it's plenty big enough to accept the rose's root-ball, now is not the time to be mean with your efforts. Depending on the size of the proposed rose, dig a hole with a diameter that is slightly larger than half the diameter of the rose's top growth, and about 14 inches deep. Run the hose into the hole and slowly allow it to fill with water for an hour or so.

To lift the rose from its current position, using a garden spade, kick the spade down to the full depth of the blade, do this around the entire plant. This will sever the roots to free the rose from the ground. Now try to work the spade underneath the rose to sever any roots there as well. When the rose is free, remove it as carefully as possible, keeping as much of the soil around the roots as is possible, and place it on an old sack or similar for carrying it to its new location.

Into the hole that you've dug, sprinkle a half cup of bone meal as this will help with root growth. Place the rose into the hole, disturbing the root ball as little as possible and start backfilling it. Pressing down with the heel of your boot, firm the rose into position. Plant the rose a little higher than the final depth to allow for settling.

The top growth of the rose is probably going to flag now after all this disturbance so it may be prudent to reduce the years growth by half, this will reduce transpiration. Until the roots get really established again, the rose is going to lose more moisture through its leaves than it can take up through its roots, so keeping it moist is going to be vital.

Keep an eye on it now and if it appears to wilt, water the roots again until it's settled.

By: Keith Berwick

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Keith Berwick is a rose growing enthusiast who has been growing roses both professionally and for pleasure for over 40 years and enjoys helping others to get started in this rewarding hobby. For more great information on transplanting roses, visit www.rosecaretoptips.com