“The sky was peopled with multitudes of stars, Sardinia had fallen behind us, across the calm black waters there was not the dimmest light to indicate how near we were to land. And yet, it was long after midnight, and at dawn we would be in Africa.”
When American writer Dharis Martin arrived in Tunisia in the late 1920s, she was conscious of stepping into an altogether different world from the one she had experienced on the European shores of the Mediterranean. Today, her words still ring true; behind the modern international ports and coastal resorts Tunisia remains a vibrant and exotic place where spicy incense mingles with the scent of jasmine, donkeys and camels replace four-by-fours, and the lilting sound of the Adan, the Call to Prayer, echoes across the rooftops as if issued from Heaven itself.
A yachting destination with a difference.
As far as Mediterranean yachting destinations are concerned Tunisia is off the beaten track, even though it is close to Sicily and Sardinia. A few days diversion when cruising either of these islands can provide a total contrast as well as the chance to visit some of the world’s most outstanding historical sites. The warm climate offers an interesting opportunity for early and late season sailing, which can be combined with shore excursions at a time when temperatures are better suited to traveling, and there are few other tourists around. The Tunisian people are also warm and friendly, as well as being eager to share their diverse cultural heritage.
For 75 years the country was a French colony and as a result French is widely spoken in coastal areas. It’s a legacy that helps the Tunisians achieve an easy blend of east and west: the young people of Tunis resemble their peers in any other international city, but as you glance up from the highway you may well see a Berber woman in her traditional brightly woven outfit, crossing the bridge above on her donkey; or in the street a housewife who has wrapped her traditional sefsari, a cream sari-like garment, over her indoor clothes.
We arrived in Tunisia at Port Yasmine, Hammamet. Situated in the midst of the international resort complex that lines the shores of an immense sandy beach, this is a modern, purpose built marina. As well as berths for smaller yachts, the port can accommodate superyachts of up to 360ft which often bring royalty and celebrity guests. Port Yasmine is popular with western tourists as well as with wealthy Tunisians and, despite the fact that many are Muslims, the dress code is relaxed: more French Riviera than Lawrence of Arabia! However, when venturing further afield it is advisable to be more demurely attired as a matter of respect for cultural differences, so leave the shorts and skimpy tops on board ladies.
Exploring the souks and medinas.
Just to the north of the port, at the end of this sweeping curve of a bay, is the original fishing village of Hammamet. An afternoon sail took us up to anchor alongside the medina where a maze of cobbled alleyways curls between whitewashed walls, draped with vibrant purple bougainvillea and tangles of jasmine. The clamor of the souk, or commercial area, surges forward to meet you, with vendors eagerly calling your attention to their carpets, pottery, perfumes and other hand crafted items. Venturing deeper within the medina walls, tranquility swiftly returns, with only the echo of your own footsteps to rouse the sleepy cats.
Yachting in Tunisia does beg for an altogether different approach from the usual circuit of beach restaurants, snorkeling and just messing about on the water. The beaches are lovely, the other marinas of El Kantaoui and Cap Monastir are well appointed, and the traditional fishing ports such as Kelibia are charming, but this is a place to be explored beyond the end of the pontoon. The capital city of Tunis is on the coast and makes an interesting place to start. Spending a day in the medina is enough to bedazzle even the most dedicated shopper; the seemingly never-ending labyrinth of narrow streets demands a sense of adventure and comfortable footwear. A covered passageway may suddenly open into the brilliant sunlight to reveal an elaborately decorated doorway. Around another corner you may find a dusty pavement thickly carpeted with perfumed rose petals, on sale for making rose water. Different areas are designated to particular products and craftsmen: silversmiths here, leather workers there, carpets, herbs and spices, fish, meat and so on. To add a touch of theatre, the price of items other than food is open to debate, requiring wholehearted participation and the commitment of a period of time commensurate with the value of the goods in question. Hence, the purchase of a pair of baboushes (leather slippers) may be secured within minutes, whereas a carpet requires at least one round of mint tea and, potentially, time out for reflection.
The Star Wars connection.
If you’ve the time to travel further inland, take a plane or helicopter from Tunis to Douz, gateway to the desert. The shifting dunes of the Tunisian Sahara are home to an estimated 15,000 Bedouin who still lead a nomadic life, moving between the oases and making a living from their herds, camels, and magnificent Arab horses. It was here that George Lucas found much of his inspiration for the original Star Wars film, including place names and costumes; you’ll notice a striking similarity between the traditional burnous, a type of long hooded coat, and the outfits worn by his ‘sand people’. Amongst the troglodyte homes of Matmata you can also find Luke Skywalker’s house.
Back at the coast, we lingered at the picture postcard port of Sidi Bou Said. A steep climb up to the hilltop village is rewarded by a stunning view of the coast, and the discovery of its pretty houses, painted entirely in blue and white since a formal decree was issued in 1915. Our visit coincided with the festival of Eid al-Fitr, the holiday immediately following the month of Ramadan. Courting couples, groups of friends and families were all out to promenade in the autumn sunshine, pausing to photograph each other at various examples of the village’s famous doors, decorated with symbolic patterns of nails. It’s best to avoid arriving during the Ramadan fast itself because during the day the choice of eating places is limited. It’s also very much a time for families to be at home together, so many restaurants are very quiet in the evenings as well. And, trust me; you shouldn’t miss out on the Tunisian specialty of Couscous.
At the centre of the ancient world.
A short distance from Sidi Bou Said lie the remains of Carthage. In 814 BC Princess Didon led her people to this natural port from the Phoenician capital of Tyre. Legend has it that she was offered as much land as could be covered by an ox skin. Cleverly, she had the skin cut into a thin string which when laid out formed the boundary of a piece of land large enough to found a city. By the third century BC the Carthagians were the greatest naval power in the Mediterranean and controlled almost all of the commercial trade. When the Roman Empire reached the southern tip of Italy, Carthage already occupied almost the entire North African coast, most of southern Spain, Corsica, Sardinia and Sicily. Inevitably, the two powers came into conflict and the first of the Punic wars erupted over the island of Sicily. Three wars and some hundred years later in 146 BC, Carthage was razed to the ground by the Romans, its inhabitants slaughtered or sold into slavery, and the surrounding countryside sown with salt so that it was rendered uninhabitable.
Almost two centuries later, Caesar began re-building the city. It rose from the ashes like a phoenix, and by the eleventh century was the Roman provincial capital of Africa with an estimated 400,000 inhabitants. An ambitiously engineered aqueduct bought drinking water from Dougga, some 125 miles away, to the luxurious villas and palaces, and further archeological wonders are dispersed over a wide area of Tunisia. There are more mosaics here than anywhere else in the world, many of which are still ‘in situ’ where you can follow in ancient footsteps and walk across them, rather than admiring them at arm’s length in a museum,. Inside Emperor Hadrian’s magnificent amphitheatre at El Djem, you can imagine the roar of 40,000 spectators as the gladiators fought for survival. Below ground the slots look almost freshly cut to take the lifting gear used to raise lions through trap doors into the arena. Make sure you have a copy of the film ‘Gladiator’ on board to watch beforehand!
If you’re looking for the excesses of St. Tropez or the luxury of the Costa Smeralda, you won’t find it here. But if you’re seeking something altogether more inspiring, steer a little further south to Tunisia, where the 21st century fades into a more unfamiliar time zone; ancient, sensuous… and still with a genuine air of mystery.
Michelle Blore has visited most of the world's most glamorous locations by boat is the founder of Dream Sailing which specialises in luxury crewed sailing yacht charter. Visit www.dreamsailing.com and find out how to experience the world of luxury yachting for yourself.
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