Unusual Thailand

On a Saturday afternoon, I visited the Phra Nang Cave on Railay Beach for the first time. Friends who come to Krabi regularly had told me that this place was a must-see.

But though I live in Phuket, which is only 180 km or about 2½ hours’ drive away, I’d never before made it to this famous “Phallus Shrine” in the cave.

The cave, on the east side of the Railay Bay is famous for its wonderful stalactites and stalagmites. Since ancient times, Phra Nang (Princess) Cave has been where fishermen, before going out to sea, have made offerings to the symbolic Phallus of Shiva (known as the Siwaleung or Palad Khik in Thai).

The fishermen, who say the cave is the home of a mythical sea princess, believe their offerings will bring them success in their fishing and protect them from danger, but what is more remarkable is that the cave contains a large collection of carved wooden phallic symbols, offerings and other objects believed to help with fertility. Read a review of a tour visiting Phra Nang Beach.

My boatman told me that some fishermen do still come here to make offerings to the princess but that the number is shrinking. I don’t know what to think of this cave. Actually, I do – but I’d rather keep my opinions to myself. So instead, let’s see what other visitors have to say.

I can think of only one word: Bizarre. I find girls are generally too embarrassed to stay long or take pictures. I haven’t seen anything like it before. The lingams? Well, sort of. South of here, toward Lanta Island, there’s a snake shrine which is a little bit similar. There’s also a phallus shrine in Bangkok.

The cave is not as big as I thought it would be. But I don’t think we have anything like this elsewhere in Thailand. There must be close to 100 phalluses, big and small. Most are made from wood. I respect the shrine because it’s a sacred place for the fishermen here in Krabi. But as for the cave itself, it’s nothing special. If you want to see a really nice cave, you should go to the Narakeering cave in Amphur Priphaya, also in Krabi. We just came from there.

Fact Sheet:

Getting there
Take a long-tail boat from Ao Nang Beach to Railay Beach. The ride takes about 15 minutes and costs 100 baht per person each way. It is then a 10-minute walk to Railay Beach East where the shrine is.

Did you know?
Siwaleung or Palad Khik is one of the most common objects of worship in this country. Some Thais believe that wearing a Siwaleung amulet will bring good luck and ward off accidents and illness. Usually they string the amulets around their waists. Most such amulets are 2 inches in length, or less.

By: Roy

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